Get Glowing: The Complete Guide to Face Exfoliation
Exfoliation Methods Explained (Save This Guide!)
SKINCARE
The Ultimate Guide to Exfoliation: From Gentle to "Holy Moly, My Face is Tingling"
Let's talk about exfoliation—basically spring cleaning for your face. If your skin looks dull despite using seventeen different serums, you probably need to evict some dead skin cells. But before you go at your face with a loofah (please don't), let's figure out which method won't leave you looking like a tomato.
What is Exfoliation?
It's removing dead skin cells from your face. Your skin naturally sheds every 28 days when you're young, but slows down as you age because life is unfair. Exfoliation gives this process a nudge.
Physical Exfoliation: The "Scrub It Out" Method
You literally scrub the dead stuff off with particles or tools.
What It Includes:
Scrubs (sugar, salt, jojoba beads)
Tools (cleansing brushes, konjac sponges, washcloths)
Dermaplaning (facial shaving - yes, you can do this at home!)
Pros:
Instant results you can see and feel
Simple to understand
Budget-friendly
Works immediately
Cons:
Easy to overdo it and scrub like you're cleaning a bathtub
Can cause micro-tears (looking at you, St. Ives Apricot Scrub)
Too harsh for sensitive skin
Terrible for active acne or rosacea
Real Talk: That walnut shell scrub is basically sandpaper for your face. Your skin deserves better.
DIY Dermaplaning: Yes, You Can Shave Your Face
Before you panic—dermaplaning at home is totally doable and surprisingly safe when done right. You're basically giving yourself a professional treatment with an under 10 dollar razor. I have had both professional and now I regularly dermaplane at home. Any professional treatment is always a treat, but I would rather have a professional treatment that I cant do myself at home (especially so economically!) A basic dermaplane razor can be found on Amazon for 8.99 for a 12 pack. This is the Kitsch brand which I have jumped on the Kitsch bandwagon recently buying several bar soaps for my hair but that is for a different post! Kitsch also has a a soothing Dermaplane jojoba and argan oil to use when dermaplaning. This will make the whole process smoother, no pun intended. Truthfully though, it will leave your skin super smooth and decrease cuts or irritation! Another option is an automatic tool with 10 blades; the Galtxen. It is currently 15% off and it has 3 adjustable speeds and it has a light so you can visualize the peach fuzz as you go! Of course, it is more expensive then the disposable blades but in the scheme of things, you would get 10 blades for less then one dermablade session in the office.
What You Need:
Sterile dermaplaning razors or eyebrow razors (not your leg razor!)
Clean, dry skin or use the dermaplane oil (not required)
Good lighting
Steady hands
How to Do It:
Start with clean, completely dry skin (no oils or serums)
Pull skin taut with one hand
Hold razor at 45-degree angle
Use short, gentle strokes in the direction of hair growth
Don't go over the same area multiple times
Follow with gentle moisturizer and SPF
The Reality:
Pros: Instant smooth skin, makeup goes on like butter, removes peach fuzz and dead skin. Topicals are better absorbed after dermaplaning.
Cons: Hair grows back (it won't be thicker—that's a myth), requires steady hands, not great if you have active breakouts
How Often: Every 3-4 weeks max
Important: Skip if you have active acne, cuts, or irritated skin. And please use a clean razor every time—this isn't the place to be economical!
Chemical Exfoliation: The "Science Magic" Method
Uses acids to dissolve dead skin cell bonds. Sounds scary but it's not—these are carefully formulated, not movie-grade metal-dissolving acids.
The Main Players:
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids):
Glycolic Acid: The overachiever, penetrates deepest
Lactic Acid: Gentler, also hydrating
Mandelic Acid: The gentle giant for sensitive skin
The ordinary has a glycolic acid exfoliating toner which is 7%. I love the Ordinary brand. It does not have the cutest packaging, colors or scents but it has the active ingredients that truly work and it is at a great price. My new find is the Maree brand glycolic acid toner pads which have tree tea oil, salicyclic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinimide and vitamins E, B3, B5. After use, I have found that my skin feels super clean, yet moisturized, soft and supple at the same time. I love how they managed to get so many active ingredients in one product! Multitasking at its finest. :) Currently, there is a 50% subscribe and save option which is an amazing offer.
Another favorite I am currently using is an Ordinary product and it is a once a week treatment mask. It is a dupe for a much more expensive product (Drunk Elephant's babyfacial). It contains both AHA (30%) and BHA (2%). With the high concentration of AHA, it is considered a peel. Be careful of this mask/peel as it is strong and you should not start with this treatment. Build up with less potent products, first!
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids):
Salicylic Acid: Oil-soluble, gets into pores, perfect for acne
PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids):
Gluconolactone: The gentle cousin of AHAs
Belif has a great PHA 2% toner as a pad. It delicately exfoliates skin while refining pores. I do like the toner in the pad option as it is easier to use and great for travel.
Pros:
Controlled and even application
Addresses acne, dark spots, and texture
No physical trauma to skin
Long-term collagen benefits
Cons:
Learning curve to find what works
Makes skin sun-sensitive (sunscreen is mandatory)
Possible "purging" phase where skin looks worse first
Takes patience—results come in weeks, not minutes
Enzyme Exfoliation: The "Gentle Pac-Man" Method
Fruit enzymes (papaya, pineapple, pumpkin) "eat" dead skin cells. Like tiny fruit-based Pac-Men.
Pros:
Super gentle for sensitive skin
Only works on dead skin (self-limiting)
Immediate brightening effect
Cons:
Slower, more gradual results
Limited product options
Can cause fruit allergies
Less scientific research backing
Professional Treatments: The Big Guns
Chemical Peels: Higher acid concentrations, range from subtle to "hide for a week"
Microdermabrasion: Professional-grade physical exfoliation
Dermaplaning: Professional face shaving for baby-smooth skin
Pros: Dramatic results, expert assessment
Cons: Expensive, potential downtime, higher stakes
How to Choose Your Method
Beginners: Gentle enzymes or low-concentration acids
Oily/Acne Skin: Salicylic acid (BHA)
Dry/Aging Skin: Glycolic or lactic acid (AHAs)
Sensitive Skin: PHAs or enzyme treatments
Combination Skin: Different methods for different face areas
The Golden Rules
Start slow and gentle
Less is more—over-exfoliation is real
Sunscreen is non-negotiable
Listen to your skin
Don't mix methods on the same day
Moisturize afterward
Consistency beats intensity
The Bottom Line
The best exfoliation method is the one you'll actually use without turning into an angry tomato. Start gentle, pay attention to your skin, and be patient. You didn't get dull skin overnight, and you won't fix it overnight either.
And seriously—wear sunscreen. Your newly exfoliated skin will thank you. I think of newly exfoliated skin as "baby skin" as it is so soft but also susceptible to sun damage.
Till next time, y'all.